Deciding what substrate to choose

It’s critical that you pick the right bedding for your green anole because it’s a lot more important than most people think.

Because the wrong type of substrate can irritate, cut, or damage your anole’s skin, foot pads (it’s how anole lizards climb), or eyes. It can even cause impactions, which can kill your lizard if it ingests enough of it.

Baby anoles are especially vulnerable to impaction because they have poor feeding behavior and small bodies compared to large chunks of substrate.

This is why it’s critical you choose the best, optimal green anole substrate.

Thankfully, it’s easy once you narrow it down to a handful of options.

I wrote this article from the perspective of a hobbyist who’s been in the game for quite some time.

Of course, you don’t have to take any advice you read from these articles. Use them as a jumping board for research at your pace. Do your own due diligence before ordering whatever bedding you do.

Here are some thoughts on what type of substrate you should use for proper husbandry of your green anole so it creates proper housing conditions.

Note that adult lizards in general are less prone to impaction compared to baby ones.

But you should still consider the risk of indigestion as a smaller, fine substrate may stick to food and thus swallow it. If your lizard eats a little bit, it shouldn’t really do harm.

But a lot over time? It can really cause impaction. The smaller the anole, the more risk there is to consider.

(If you’re completely new to this reptile, see this guide to see if a green anole is right for you.)

While they’re easy to care for, reptiles are completely different from dogs or cats.

Best types of green anole substrate

Here we discuss the various types of reptile substrate on the market and their pros and cons. This list covers pretty much all commercially available anole substrates so you’re not missing out on options.

You’re free to use this guide as a baseline to see what type of substrate is compatible with your lizard. If you have suggestions or feedback, please let me know.

Coconut coir

Coconut coir can be found in smaller packages available for bulk sale. This is basically coconut fiber that’s naturally extracted from the coconut husk.

It’s not only used in reptile bedding- you’ll find it in the construction of doormats, brushes, and even your bed mattresses.

Some people use it for organic gardening because it’s resistant to damage by saltwater and is very durable for creating projects like hanging baskets. Coconut coir can be found in both tan and brown colors.

It’s often sold as a commercial substrate for reptiles because it’s organic and free of pesticides. It’s also easy to dig so pregnant female anoles so they can create a nest to lay eggs.

Additionally, it keeps the anole warm by giving them an inch or so of elevation from the cold terrarium glass.

Coconut coir is pricy when you compare it to other reptile bedding, but it’s renowned for its ability to soak up moisture with ease. This can help keep your anole’s waste from being put all over the tank.

Coco coir is a good choice for green anoles. Just make sure you use a feeding dish so they don’t accidentally eat it when it’s feeding time.

For pregnant females, it’s an excellent substrate for incubation too.

Sphagnum peat moss

Similar to coconut coir, sphagnum peat moss (SPM) is also very similar in texture. Peat moss can be found in organic varieties as well and generally much cheaper per cubic unit vs. coconut coir.

So if you want to save money by buying bulk, peat moss is one of the cheapest organic substrates for green anoles. This gives you peace of mind because you know there are no synthetics in the bedding.

Peat moss is brownish. It can be very fine or slightly chunky, depending on where it comes from (Canada, New Zealand, etc.)

Peat moss is widely available and sold in commercial pet stores. It can be used to create a tropical, jungle, or forested habitats.

Just like coconut coir, peat moss can be used for egg incubation, breeding, digging, and odor absorption. It’s resistant to water and excellent at absorbing waste from your anole.

Often, people will mix peat moss with soil or bark. This can make a very nice combo that has a unique natural look of the wetlands.

The moss may confuse you because it’s often sold as a “jungle mix”. Just make sure it has those long fibrous fir blends with added synthetics. It should be completely natural.

New Zealand moss is the long, fibrous kind that looks like wet twigs. Canadian moss is looser and very fine, which can be bad for green anoles if they ingest it so be careful when you choose. Especially baby anoles which can eat it.

Tip: If you want to save some cash, buy your peat moss from hardware stores. It’s usually in the garden section and comes in a huge bale for just a few bucks. Make sure it’s organic and the right kind.

It’s much cheaper than buying small packages specifically marketed for reptiles even though it’s the same thing.

Reptile bark

Reptile bark is commonly recommended online. In reptile forums, which generally draw the more enthusiastic crowd, you’ll see contrarian advice.

Reptile bark should NOT be used. At least not on its own. It usually is made with larger chunks which can cause some severe effects on your reptile. If you choose to use bark, make sure the pieces are too big for your anole to swallow.

Often, it’s mixed with some other substrate like coco coir or moss. The bark should be completely natural and free of sprays or pesticides. A lot of bark is derived from fir, which is good for holding humidity and keeping it stable.

Bark should be soaked in hot water before use to remove debris and sterilize it.

Replace bark when soiled or every 2 months to keep it fresh and to keep mold off. Smaller pieces may help prevent crickets, worms, or roaches from burrowing, but you can use other bedding for that.

Bark should be heat treated so it’s safe for your anole. Read the package! This way, you know how it’s been processed.

Sand

Never use sand for green anoles. Period. The fine particles will easily be eaten by your lizard. This includes play sand.

Do not use sand with any other substrate. Avoid calcium sand, desert sand, etc. Some soil sand mixes are larger in size. If you choose to use this, make sure that you wash it out to free dust and dirt.

Ensure that the mix is too big to eat for your anole by checking the size of the grains.

Reptile soil

Some people use soil purchased directly from the garden center or nursery. You can get organic soil for cheap and in bulk.

This can be a good substrate when paired with something to absorb moisture and retain heat.

Commercial “reptile soil” also exists. This is usually to build a tropical setup in naturalistic terrariums or paludariums.

It can be used for burrowing females or growing live plants. These products are usually a mixture of soil, sand, peat moss, and other materials.

Check the substrate to make sure that no loose sand particles are present.

Reptile carpet

This is relatively new to the market and has been popular with people getting into the reptile hobby.

Reptile carpet is usually reusable, meaning you can wash it with soapy water.

Some carpets are reversible or even have prints.

The nice part about this is that it saves you money if you can keep it clean over time. They usually have no loose particles like sand which can cause impaction.

However, you still need to make sure the carpet materials can’t easily become frayed or loose from digging.

Reptile carpet doesn’t look as nice as a “real” substrate, but if you want to save money, it may be a good alternative to the actual substrate. Make sure it’s soft and absorbent.

Be sure to follow the cleaning regimen on the package. Reptile carpet doesn’t hold heat or humidity well compared to actual substrate.

So be sure to check that the temperature is set correctly by investing in a good thermometer.

Peat moss

There are many types of peat moss that can be used if you don’t like sphagnum.

Everything from beaked moss to Galapagos moss to New Zealand moss exists. Sphagnum moss is a popular choice in creating wetland environments and is excellent for keeping the humidity up.

It’s also suitable for the incubation of eggs. Feel free to explore the dozens of options available. Just be sure to do your due diligence when considering what type of moss to use.

Here are some pointers:

Free of pesticides, sprays, or other residues

• 100% natural fibers or substrate
• Long-stranded fibers which aren’t easily eaten are much safer than smaller, fine powder-like moss
• Absorbs odor
• Stabilizes humidity
• Holds warmth over time
• Removes water
• Go organic if the option exists

For breeding, the substrate should be digable by the pregnant female so she can create a nest.

You can even mix different types of reptile moss to create a unique look. But I get that moss isn’t for everyone.

If you want to use something else instead of moss in a terrarium, consider using compost, coconut coir, or the other fine options on this list.

Volcano substrate (bioactive)

Volcanic substrate is a bioactive reptile bedding that’s rich in minerals. The volcanic soil is very dense with beneficial nutrients.

This makes it possible to grow plants, improve drainage for waste, and increase the aeration for oxygen levels. If you have live plants, you’ll want to use some sort of bioactive agent to promote rooting.

Many of these mixes contain beneficial bacteria for planted terrariums or vivariums while providing a substrate or mix for your anole.

When used properly, it can help keep the terrarium’s ecosystem clean.

Because each manufacturer has their mixture, you’ll want to research what the ingredients are so that you know it’s a bioactive substrate safe for your anole- just like anything else on this list.

Cypress mulch

Cypress mulch is very pleasing to look at. It’s a combination of large and small pieces of mulch which gives off that natural forested look.

Sadly, it’s not always right for anoles. For starters, cypress mulch contains many different sizes. There are tiny ones that are sharp, which can be dangerous for lizards.

They can also fracture or splinter when walked over, so that’s another threat. Lastly, they often contain debris or dirt. So if you decide to opt for mulch substrate, make sure you get the right size.

It should be natural and free of debris. Similar to soil, pebbles, or leaf litter, mulch can be bought in garden centers for cheaper prices than in pet stores. 

Compressed coconut

Compressed coconut is a safe, expandable substrate. It’s coconut fiber that’ll slowly expand when you unpack it. A lot of these products are eco-friendly using renewable resources, so if you want to go green, this is a good option.

Coconut fibers aren’t the same as coconut coir.

This is why it’s so much cheaper than organic coco coir. Each brick expands and makes a few liters of the substrate when soaked with water.

It does require prep. Usually, you’ll place a brick of the substrate into some water. Then it’ll expand in 30 minutes or so. Directions will vary. After it expands, you can use it damp or dry it out before you place it into the terrarium.

Compressed coconut fibers will help get rid of the odors and help absorb waste. It can be recycled after it’s used. It also stores well because it’s compact. Mix with organic fertilizer or similar to create Vivaria soil.

Good for desert or dry setups since it helps keep it nice and arid from moisture contents.

Walnut shells

Walnut shell bedding is commonly marketed for reptiles that are fully grown. Regardless, green anoles can’t be part of this demographic. Sadly.

It’s because the smaller particle size makes it easy to ingest. For larger reptiles, like boas, tarantulas, or bearded dragons, it’s a good choice.

But smaller lizards like anoles or geckos may ingest the fine particles over time which can cause impaction. Walnut shells are usually free of synthetics and absorb heat well.

River pebbles

Pebbles can be used for aquascaping specific areas of your tank. Don’t use pebbles as a foundational substrate.

Only use it paired with something else more practical (like peat or coconut). Pebbles can be used for water features or fencing for live crickets, worms, or roaches.

Do NOT use pebbles for the entire terrarium because the lizard can get its foot stuck between shifting pebbles. Food can also get stuck as with waste. It’s just a mess to clean up.

Make sure that the bells are large enough so that it can’t swallow them or else it’s really screwed.

Gravel

You should never use gravel in a terrarium for anoles because these pieces are just the right size to cause impaction.

If your anole eats one, whether intentionally or accidentally, it can kill your lizard. Anything firm, solid, and hard should be used with caution as a reptile substrate.

For anoles, a substrate that’s smaller than the size of half of its body should not be used as substrate. You probably already know the rule of feeding sizes- you should never feed anything that’s larger than the space between its eyes.

But for substrate, even if it’s larger than the width between the eyeline, don’t use it.

Green anoles can gape their mouth larger than this width, which means they can still fit objects into their mouth that you probably would expect. This includes substrate.

So yeah. Gravel. Don’t use it. That’s for fish.

Reptile aspen

Aspen litter is a soft, compostable material that resembles hay.

If you’ve ever had a small animal (rat, mouse, guinea pig, etc.) you know what Timothy hay is. Aspen litter looks very similar to it.

But sadly, a green anole lizard isn’t a small animal. Therefore, aspen shavings are not suitable for anoles.

The litter can soak up waste or water, which can reduce its size. This makes them easy to ingest which can cause impaction.

Terrarium liners

These aren’t actually substrates, so please don’t get confused over them.

These are just plastic warps that go along the edges of the tank so it’s easier to clean. You need to add substrate to them.

They’re not suitable for any setup unless you need a bare tank for breeding or something.

Bioactive substrate

Don’t get me wrong. The whole bioactive reptile setup is very cool. For those that are unaware, it’s using materials that are real and bioactive to create a live setup.

This allows the terrarium to retain a high level of humidity with an amazing rainforest, loamy scent, and soft texture.

It helps anoles and other reptiles breed, dig, and nest their incubating eggs. It’s probably the most natural setup you can create in your house minus letting your anole go in the wild.

Bioactive substrates each have their blend of ingredients. But most include some combo of moss, fir, leaves, and other microorganisms.

Bioactive setups are different from regular setups because they foster a mini ecosystem of microorganisms that can help break down reptile waste, which means you don’t need to clean it as often.

It can be used to produce nutrients for live plants or other inverts too. If you want your reptile bedding to be a real ecosystem, bioactive is the way to go.

Of course, you’ll want to do your research so you know that the ingredients they use in it are safe for anoles.

Sand mats

Sand mats are the solution to loose sand particles. It’s basically like sandpaper.

The surface of the mat is rough and coarse so it simulates rocky and sandy substrate, but it doesn’t have sand that can be swallowed.

Of course, nothing compares to real sand where the green anole can dig or burrow through. But then again, you probably don’t want that.

If you love the sand setup and the desert-like environment it creates in your tank, consider using sand mats. They’re sold by the tank size so there’s no need to cut to size.

They’re safe, and hygienic and offer a firm grip for your anole so it doesn’t slip. They can also be washed so you can reuse them as necessary, so there are money savings there.

Leaf litter

Leaf litter as a substrate can give your terrarium that natural forested look. But here’s a tip: just collect the leaves from your garden.

It’s the same thing and you can be sure it’s free of pesticides (assuming you know where the leaves came from).

Why buy bagged leaves when you can harvest them yourself?

Leaves can be crushed into smaller pieces or just used as whole pieces to provide coverage. It’s commonly used in bioactive substrates.

Rinse well before use. Leaves have minimal risk of being ingested and causing impaction, but you should still take caution. Keep the pieces big if possible.

Further reading/references

Xyz

Choosing an anole-safe reptile substrate made simple

Hopefully you now have a more clear idea of the type of substrate you should get for your green anole. There are many choices you can buy, but not all of them can be compatible with anoles.

Just because there’s a picture of an anole or it says “reptile” on the package does NOT mean it can be used as bedding for your lizard!

If you have any questions about choosing a particular substrate, please feel free to leave a comment and let me know.

The post What Kind of Bedding Do Green Anoles Need? appeared first on GreenAnoles.com.

Green anoles are fine as solitary creatures and will do perfectly fine on their own.

In the wild, you may find them in clusters of a single male with multiple females. But this is often difficult to reproduce in the household terrarium.

They’re communal in the sense that mating pairs stay together. This is why they’re equipped with social gestures like head bobbing, dewlap flaring, etc.

Therefore, it leaves many reptile owners down to the question of keeping a single anole or adding more reptiles to the tank.

But before doing so, it’s important and imperative to consider the consequences of resource avaialbility, temperatment, and compatibility.

This guide aims to give the reptile keeper points to consider before making any moves, but is NOT offering professional advice. Consult with your veterinarian before taking action.

What other lizards can live with anoles?

Okay, so let’s start with the basics and get this out of the way:

For beginners who aren’t experienced: NEVER combine anoles with other species of any kind. This can end up killing or injuring the livestock. NEVER house two male anoles together. NEVER overcrowd a small tank with multiple females, whether you’re putting a male in there or not.

If you’ve never housed reptiles or don’t have much experience in their temperament, lightning-fast reflexes, or unpredictable demeanor, you can’t be confident and say you know what you’re doing.

This is why simply NOT “experimenting” is best.

For those that are experienced, yes, it’s possible to house multiple anoles together. Even anoles with different reptile species!

Some other reptiles that have successfully been housed with green anoles include:

• Brown anoles (Bahaman anoles)
• Knight anoles
•  house geckos
• Long-tailed lizards
• Frogs
• Fire belly toads
• Aquatic invertebrates (fish)
• Generally any other anole species

Do NOT house with:

• Snakes (any type)
• Turtles
• Tortoises
• Spiders
• Scorpions
• Predatory reptiles
• Solitary reptiles
• Dominant reptiles

But before you go off making a reptile blender out of your tank, there are many variables you need to consider first.

As you know, even the most docile reptiles that “get along” with each other can become stressed or suddenly change their behavior out of nowhere.

That’s why it’s important to proceed with caution when working with different species because you don’t know how they’ll interact. It’s almost like mixing two random liquids in science class.

Anoles are generally passive, submissive creatures and don’t actively hunt down prey. When you put them together with an active hunter, you risk a fight between the species.

You must do your own research, due diligence, and ensure that you have confidence in what you’re doing. This guide is NOT to be used for advice. It’s for entertainment purposes only and none of the material should be used as a substitute for professional advice from a licensed veterinarian.

So let’s cover some things you should consider before combing green anoles with other species.

Preying

Yes, the most important issue is different species trying to eat each other.

The simplest rule is that as long as they’re both big enough and outside of the “how big of a food can my reptile eat?” zone, it should be OK.

But this doesn’t account for one reptile killing the other and then eating on its body. Orbiting off its tail end. Or its leg. Yikes.

Choosing two reptiles that are large enough to stay out of each other’s mouths is a good start. But beyond that is a dice roll.

Environmental dominance

Green anoles spend their time vertically up in foliage that’s tall. They’re arboreal.

To minimize competition for space, you can consider combining anoles with other reptile species that spend their time on land (terrestrial).

This way, the green anoles can share their tank with some other species and they don’t infringe on each others’ territory.

A simple example?

Green anoles and fish. If you have a water feature in your tank, it’s possible to house fish in there with the lizards. Anoles hate water and will generally stay out of it while fish obviously can’t get out unless they jump out.

This way, both species spend their time in their own environment and won’t get in the way of each other.

The problem with this setup is that the fish will have a small environment to swim in unless you have a few gallons of water in a breeder tank going sideways.

Additionally, the anole may drown if a gently sloping gradient onto land isn’t provided. But this is just an example of how it can work.

If you have a small waterfall feature, perhaps tetras or minnows may work. Expect your anole to chase the fish and possibly eat them. Remember that they eat anything they can fit between their eyes.

Active periods

Another thing to think about is the active periods of green anoles and whatever other species you want to house them with.

Green anoles are diurnal (active during the day). If you can pair them with a nocturnal species, then they may “share” the tank’s resources. This brings up the popular house gecko, which is commonly seen raised in the same enclosure as anoles.

House geckos are nocturnal (active at night), so they roam around when the anoles are sleeping. Green anoles will roam around while the house geckos sleep.

This way, they don’t get in each others’ way and you can simultaneously share resources for both of them- they can eat from the same food dish, water pool, and the anole can bask in the day without disturbing the gecko if it has a suitable place to hide.

Pathogen transmission

One of the most overlooked things to consider is pathogen transmissibility. Housing different species in eh tank can expose them to different pathogens, viruses, bacteria, etc. that they wouldn’t normally get if housed with the same species.

For example, if amphibians and reptiles were mixed together, this can pose dangerous consequences. Amphibians are known to absorb toxic pathogens easily, which may be picked up from reptiles.

Plus, amphibians aren’t super tidy either. They also release their own round of pathogens, which are taken up by the reptiles. So it’s a cycle that they end up hurting each other time.

And you can’t see it happening until one starts getting stressed, does’ teat, or starts hiding all the time. This is extremely complex but is something to note.

Other than mixing green and brown anoles, when you add some other species, bacteria, viruses, and other pathogens are an issue.

Taking the fish example: If you put tetras in a small waterfall, they release ammonia into the water as a waste product. If anoles drink this or swim in it, it can hurt their eyes and digestive tract. If anole waste gets into the water column, it can hurt the fish. As you can see, pathogens are important.

Similar care requirements

Next, you should think about the care similarities and differences between the two species. They should have similar needs in terms of temperature, humidity, tank layout, water, hides, etc.

This will make it easier to take care of both of them at the same time. If they have vast differences in temperature, for example, it’ll be hard to provide two different zones with two different temps. You may also get the anole going to the wrong zone.

Or finding a “cool zone” for the anole when there are two “hot zones.” Or maybe the heat diffusion from the hot zone has a perfect middle zone for the other species you’re putting in there.

The heating of the tank is critical. Making sure there’s a hot and cool zone is necessary for reptile thermoregulation. This is part of a proper tank setup.

Do you see all the possibilities?

That’s why you should stick with species that are the same or very similar in housing requirements. Or you’re just making it hard on yourself.

Resource availability

Ensure that all the members of the tank have access to heat, water, humidity, and a place to hide. If one species is dominant and hogs it all up, the others will become stressed.

This is why housing two spaces with opposite active periods (diurnal vs. nocturnal) can help because they rotate themselves in and out of activity. Or choosing species that have different environmental preferences so they minimize space competition (terrestrial vs. arboreal).

Avoid housing species together that use the same space, resources, etc. This is just a beginner for trouble!

Do anoles need a companion?

Green anoles are solitary lizards and prefer to be alone. Males will chase each other off and should not be housed together. A single male may be housed with multiple females if enough space is provided.

Otherwise, raising a single anole on its own will be ideal. They don’t get “lonely” and prefer to have the light, food, and water all to themselves.

They’re not social creatures and only nest together in the wild when they mate. If you don’t plan on mating or breeding anoles, there’s no reason to put multiple ones inside the same tank together. Keeping a single lizard will make it easier for him/her and you- less money, fewer headaches, fewer variables to worry over.

If you MUST put more than one anole together, consider housing with other anole species.

For example, a Bahaman anole with a green anole. Or a brown anole with a green anole. Anoles are anoles.

They’re all very similar to each other and should ignore or get along with each other if resources/space is adequate.

Will anoles kill each other?

Anoles can seriously injure or kill each other if they’re forced to inhabit the same enclosure.

Even if you provide them a huge tank (60 gallons or more), anoles will become territorial and defend their territory by fighting.

Male only tanks

If two males are placed in the same tank, there’s a high chance they’ll fight each other, no matter the tank size.

This is why you should never put two male anoles together. The dominant one will continue to harass the submissive one and can injure, kill, or stress it until it doesn’t eat or is constantly brown/black.

Female only tanks

The same goes for females. Although multiple females can be housed together, if space is limited, they may fight over territory or resources.

There must be ample space to accommodate multiple female anoles being in the same tank. Additionally, every female member must NOT be territorial and compete for resources.

You can sometimes gauge whether a female is territorial by looking for warnings signs like flaring the dewlap, chasing other females away, or being perched on the highest point watching other lizards. If you see any signs of danger, separate or remove the dominant female from the tank.

Note that even though if a pair of females have always been OK being housed together, one may suddenly become territorial or defensive if it’s stressed, pregnant, hungry, or seemingly for no reason at all.

So just because they’ve always been okay with each other doesn’t mean they’ll stay that way.

If you introduce a male alter on, one female may get pregnant and this can turn her into an aggressive little lizard. So be careful of that. Any random variables may change the behavior of your lizards that are tank mates.

Males and female pairs

Lastly, for male and female pairs, the same precautions should be taken.

When introducing them together, watch for signs of fighting or defensive behavior. The male lizard will likely show dominant behaviors in front of the female and claim the tank. After that, they should be good to go.

You may see some behaviors like chasing the female away, keeping watch from a perch, or even hogging up the basking spot.

This is to be expected, but if the male gets the females tressed because of this, you should separate the two. If the female doesn’t have access to the basking spot, water, or food, they should be separated as well.

Male with multiple females

If you’re keeping a single male with multiple females, repeat the process.

Watch for any fighting or constant territorial behaviors between the male/female or females amongst each other. Any submissive lizards should be removed from the tank so they can get access to food, water, heat, light, etc.

Or if the members are fine with each other but there’s one annoying one that’s dangerous towards others, remove it from the population and separate it.

How many green anoles can live together?

For a standard 10 gallon tank, it can house a maximum of two anoles. They should be both female or opposite sex. Any more may result in territorial fighting or stress.

Green anole tank compatibility

There are many reptiles you can pick up at the pet store, so it’s easy to get curious over what you can put in the same tank. If you‘re wondering about what can live with green anoles, here’s a good list for starters.

Note that you should avoid combining amphibians, animals, and/or reptiles together in the same tank. Don’t mix and match different species. This poses a pathogen risk.

Brown anole

Brown anoles can make good companions with green anoles, provided that they get along with each other.

Since they both have similar housing requirements, you don’t need a complex tank setup. But they will compete for space, food, water, light, heat, and hiding places, so don’t overcrowd your tank.

Leopard gecko

Leopard geckos (leos) are very different from anoles. They have different humidity, temperature, and UV requirements, which makes them a bad choice to cohabitate together.

Skink

There have been some people who have kept blue-tongued skinks with their anoles in the same vivarium. Though, this doesn’t seem like it’s easily done. Note that skinks prefer the same arboreal environment as anoles, so they may compete for space. They also both feed on insects.

Crested gecko

Crested geckos could be a suitable mate for anoles, but they need their own special setup. Cresteds (cresties) prefer semi-arboreal environments, while anoles are fully arboreal. Crested geckos can also be very submissive, which can lead to the anoles pushing them out and competing for resources.

Mourning gecko

Similar to crested geckos, mourning geckos (day geckos) may be suitable tank mates with anoles. Be careful of the day geckos fine skin, as it can easily be damaged by an anole’s bite. They also may compete for basking sites, UV light, or heat.

Bearded dragon

These are way too big and should never be placed with anole lizards. They can eat a green anole whole with their wide mouths. Bad choice.

House gecko

If there’s one complementary reptile that you can keep with a green anole, it’s the house gecko. House geckos are active during the night, while anoles are active during the day.

As mentioned prior, this lets the two species complement each other and split their resource usage without competing for them.

Provide adequate hiding places for house geckos, as they prefer to be in tight crevices rather than vertically perched like anoles.

See this video:

It’s best to only put anoles with anoles

As you can see, the simple rule of thumb is that green anoles are solitary species and prefer to either be alone or housed with the opposite sex (one male to two females).

Never combine anoles and other lizards, reptiles, or animals together in the same tank. Never put two males together.

And never overcrowd the tank with females. This can result in serious injury or a lethal fight between the anoles, so avoid at all costs.

Unless you absolutely have to put more than one anole in the same tank, you should avoid it.

For housing different reptiles in the same tank, you must consider resource availability, pathogens, day/night cycles, territory, behavior, space available, etc.

It’s difficult and much more complex than seeing if they “get along” with each other. It’s nuanced.

Do you have any questions about anole compatibility? Just leave a comment to ask us!

If you’ve successfully housed green anoles with other lizards or reptiles, share what you’ve learned with other readers.

Did you find this guide helpful? Please let me know your feedback as well.

References

• Green anole – Wikipedia
• Crested gecko – ADW
• Other reptiles/amphibians compatible with green anoles? – Reddit

The post What Can Live With Green Anoles? (Tank Compatibility) appeared first on GreenAnoles.com.

Sure, decorating it is the fun part.

But how about optimizing for best temperature flow? Or locking in humidity?

Or just maximum UVB exposure?

Read on to see how you can create a working habitat map for your green anole’s tank setup.

How to make a green anole habitat

Setting up your green anole’s new habitat is simple.

People tend to overcomplicate the matter when it’s not necessary.

Of course, this is mainly because they want to landscape it to look aesthetically pleasing to the human eye.

As far as the anole is concerned, it doesn’t mind if it’s perfectly scaled or raw and messy like the wild. Your main task is to provide everything it needs at the minimum.

Optimizing heat flow, access to live prey, and a hiding area are key points to consider. Other than that, you’re free to design and set up the tank however you want.

Choosing the right terrarium

You can use either an aquarium or terrarium (or vivarium) for your anole. They’re all fully capable of housing one- the only difference is the definition:

Aquariums are for fish and these are fully sealed to prevent water leakage with aquarium silicone at the corners where the glass meets.

Terrariums may or may not be fully sealed with silicone. They’re designed for any pet that’s land-based. Spiders, lizards, geckos, and more. They’re not waterproof.

A vivarium is a general term that may include both aquariums and terrariums but is commonly used for plants and pets.

Regardless of which one you buy, they’re all suitable habitats for green anoles. As long as it has sealed glass and a secure lid.

How big of a tank does a green anole need?

The minimum tank size is 10 US gallons. This is the most popular tank size by far and widely produced. You can find it in any pet store near the fish supplies or reptile supplies. It comes in one standard size with standard measurements of xyz.

Of course, the larger tank you can provide, the more space you have for the various items your anole will need. It also leads to more room for landscaping if you want to decorate it to theme it.

How many green anoles can live in a 10-gallon tank?

10 gallons will house a single green anole and provide enough space for sustenance. Some people suggest 2 anoles per 10 gallons, but this is stretching it.

They may become stressed and turn brown due to a lack of space.

It also leads to more encounters between the two anoles, which could lead to the dominant lizard constantly harassing the submissive one.

What do green anoles need in their cage?

Green anoles aren’t picky and only require the basic equipment for reptiles that you’d expect- nothing out of the ordinary.

For your anole to prosper, here are the necessary equipment you need to have:

Required:

• UVA heat lamp for basking
• UVB tube light for digestion
• Sphagnum peat moss for substrate
• Humidity meter
• Temperature meter
• Hiding place

Optional:

• A shallow dish for water
• Driftwood for climbing
• Fake plants and branches
• Under Tank heater
• Bulb timer
• Misting system
• Reptile carpet
• Coconut fiber substrate

Note: Avoid using heat rocks. Green anoles aren’t bright enough to get off the rock and will sit there and burn themselves while it basks, as with many reptiles. Only use above tank heaters or under tank heaters. NO HEAT ROCKS.

That’s about it. Nothing special. You can often find all the equipment you need in a “habitat kit” that pet stores provide.

It’s generally cheaper to buy a kit for some light discounts rather than buying each piece individually.

But it depends on the style and what you need, so it’s in your best interest to do some comparison shopping.

How do you make a green anole habitat?

Building the habitat for your anole is the fun part. Cleaning is a nightmare.

But we’ll talk about that another time.

Putting the various pieces together to create a functional, yet pleasing terrarium for your lizard is the ideal goal many hobbyists aim to create.

You could fiddle for hours trying to get everything to be picture-perfect, but only to change it completely later on.

I won’t go into detail on designing a tank that looks good- that’s for you to decide and highly subjective that we could discuss it for hours.

But I will give you some tips on how to position everything so you have an idea of what goes where.

Habitat map

First, lay down the substrate you chose on the bottom of the tank.

If you’re using coconut fiber or crushed walnut, this will be more costly compared to organic peat moss or even reptile carpet.

If you don’t have a lot of time to clean the tank, the reptile carpet is amazing.

This carpet looks synthetic and it’s easy to tell it’s fake, but it makes cleaning a breeze. It also helps retain heat overnight and is easy to cut to size for custom setups.

Otherwise, if you’re looking for a cost-effective option that you can just throw into the garbage, stick with peat moss. It’s cheap and absorbs waste well and masks light odors.

You can buy organic peat moss in bulk at home improvement stores. One bale will last you years for a single lizard.

Lay down the substrate to fill in the bottom 2.5”. This will keep the anole elevated at all times and prevent contact with the cold glass, especially at night.

Anoles may dig, so the more substrate you add, the less chance of it getting to the bare tank.

Never use sand, wool, or gritty substances that can be swallowed. This may cause impaction.

Ensure that whatever substrate you use is loose. Clumped or matted substrate may be swallowed by the anole.

After you’ve filled out the entire bottom of the tank with the substrate, put in your gear one by one.

Decide where you want to put the UVA basking lamp. Most people put it above a log or branch where the anole will spend the majority of the day.

Ideally, you’d want to put it somewhere that’s easy to see so you can watch it all day.

Put the thermometer next to the basking area. Add the humidity gauge as well. Make sure they’re easy to read from the “front” of the tank- eliminate glares.

Add another thermometer to the “cool” side of the tank that’s away from the UVA bulb. This is where the anole will go to cool down and thermoregulate.

Put in your hiding place. This should be somewhere in the middle of the tank with both access to the hot and cool side INSIDE the hiding place. This gives the anole the freedom to choose between hot or cold when it hides.

The UVA bulb should be securely attached above the tank using a floodlight mount and connected to a proper power source. It should be free of wind, drafts, and accidents like somewhere bumping into it.

There should be no materials nearby that may heat up and pose a fire risk.

The UVB bulb goes lengthwise down the tank. It should be secured using a hood that fits across the terrarium and connected to a properly rated power source.

If you’re using a timer for your bulbs, make sure it can supply the wattage necessary to power everything at once. Some companies make power strips with timers just for this purpose.

Put in the rest of your decor and gear that you purchased. This does it for the bare minimum.

If you’re using a misting system, it can automatically keep humidity levels high. It pairs well with untreated leaf litter to help sustain a bioactive tank.

Do green anoles need a heat lamp?

Yes, a heat lamp is necessary because it provides the UV light for heat generation and proper metabolism.

A regular household bulb sometimes may work, but it needs to be strong enough to produce enough heat to bring the temperatures to the right levels (90F). The position of the lamp makes a huge difference.

If you put the bulb closer to the enclosure, heat will be more focused and bring the ambient temps up. Putting it away from the tank reduces it.

So even if your bulb is weak, you can make it stronger just by changing the distance.

Of course, follow all proper precautions to prevent fire or electrical hazards. That’s number one.

What about a water dish?

This should be part of your tank setup because it allows the anole to bathe when necessary.

Bathing loosens the skin during shedding and also raises the ambient humidity of the habitat- both of which contribute to your anole’s well-being.

If you’re having difficulty keeping the humidity high, consider switching to a wider (but NOT deeper) water dish.

It’ll evaporate quickly and also raise the humidity by a significant amount. Remember to never use a deep dish.

Your anole should be able to climb in and out without any help. You can add in a branch or two for it to grasp onto for easier access.

Do they need decor?

Tank decorations are up to you.

On one hand, tank decor is nice because it makes your tank look nicer and you can theme it.

But on the other hand, it can make it appear more cluttered and harder to clean. Imagine trying to clean up anole poop wedged between a fake branch and a rock.

If you decide to decorate the tank, be sure to follow these guidelines:

• Only use smooth decorations, never use pointed or jagged edges
• Use plastic or glass materials when possible
• Clean new decorations or equipment before placing it in the tank
• Never use secondhand goods if you don’t know how to clean them properly
• Give your anole plenty of space between each decoration so it doesn’t get stuck
• Make sure the decorations won’t topple over and are secure and sturdy
• Avoid using adhesives when possible- superglue is preferred for permanent fixings

Green anole tank setups are easy

This lizard doesn’t ask for a whole lot. So you can get away with just the basics for starters.

This is what makes them appealing to kids or beginners to reptile keeping.

Green anoles only need the basics to thrive, but you can always add more if you want. This makes the pet affordable, low maintenance, and easy.

Who doesn’t want that?

What do you think? How do you plan to decorate your tank setup?

Any tips/tricks you want to tell other hobbyists? Leave a comment and let us know.

Further reading

You may find these pages helpful for additional references:

• Species Profile: Green Anole (Anolis carolinensis)
• Green Anole – Anolis carolinensis – Animal Diversity Web

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